C2C Day 7 - July 20 - Kirkby Stephen to Keld - 12 Miles

You've probably noticed that our posts have become shorter and less detailed. There are two reasons for this 1) we've had to rely on the generosity of our B&B hosts and since it takes a fair bit of time to upload pictures, etc. we've tried to keep it short and 2) exhaustion after a long day of walking! As well, we have only been uploading the pictures from Francine's camera. Peter's photos (larger files to upload) will come later.
Today was a welcome break at only 12 miles. We hiked up to Nine Standards Rigg which is the so called watershed of England (water flows either west to the Irish Sea or east to the North Sea - sort of like a continental divide). However, crossing miles of boggy, peaty moors (hilly swamps in a barren landscape), we felt like all of the water was simply staying up there. Worst day for the boots yet! This was the first day that we had no rain but the wind on top was biting and cold. We walked today's whole section with Sean, our new friend from Northern Ireland, and the conversation enriched the day. Arriving in Keld, we had a pint at our B&B (Keld Lodge), to celebrate reaching the half-way point!
Some Observations:

• Peter has a couple of blisters but is keeping them in check with second skin and blister pads.
• Francine's scraped knees (from a day 2 tumble) is healing well.
• We must be burning off the calories because we have been polishing off pretty significant evening meals.
• Sticky Toffee pudding is our new favourite desert.
• Our boots are looking quite disgusting at this point - thank goodness for drying rooms found at most places that we have stayed at.
• Initially we tried to avoid sheep/cow droppings, now we just don't care!
• Peter now knows how to recognize stinging nettles (a weed), after a major encounter led to a sleepness night of burning legs!
• The black slugs found everywhere are huge!
• Days are incredibly long. Sunrise is at 5:00 AM and it is still light out long after we go to bed at 10:00PM.
• We go to bed every night exhausted and sleep like babies.
• This is by far the most challenging thing that we have ever done and we are loving every minute of it!

Note to Barry and Jane - re: Roys, our middle names are Thomas and Lynne.
Note to Pat - The Lake district fells make the Boulder Flatirons look like child's play!
Note to Louis and Lise - you would love Geo-caching along this route.

Thanks to all of you for your comments. They help keep us motivated.

Kirkby Stephen

Nine Standards Rigg

Sean and Peter

Peat bogs everywhere - a real challenge to negotiate

Moorland

Near Ravenseat Farm

One of many stone barns used to store hay and shelter cattle and sheep

C2C Day 6 - July 19 - Shap to Kirkby Stephen - 21 miles

What a long day! We figured a 21 mile walk would be pretty straightforward. Wrong again! Although not as hilly, it was definitely an endurance test. Rain poured down on us a couple of times through the moorlands. The landscape is very different although just as beautiful. After leaving at 9:30 am and stopping for lunch in the beautiful village of Orton, we arrived at the Old Coach House BB at 7pm - dog tired. Thanks to our wonderful hosts, Derek and Betty Rome, we have been able to quickly update you. Hopefully, by tonight we will have reached the half-way point.

C2C Day 5 - July 18 - Patterdale to Shap - 16 miles

OK - so those that say Day 3 or 4 are the toughest - lied. What a long day this was. We left Patterdale at 9 am and immediately started our ascent all the way up and over the High Street range. The height gain for today was 2500 feet and we crossed over Kidsty Pike, the highest point crossed on the C to C walk. Even though we had a beautiful view of Bannerdale Valley, unfortunately the summit was covered by cloud and mist and we were a bit disappointed not to be able to see the view from the top. After a steep descent we walked at least 4 miles along the Haweswater Reservoir and through some wonderful country, finally arriving in Shap at 7pm. We were so tired that we barely made it to the closest pub for dinner.

Leaving Patterdale

Angle Tarn

At the summit near Kidsty Pike

C2C Day 4 - July 17 - Grasmere to Patterdale - 8 miles

Woke up to a rainy day. After updating our blog we set off for Patterdale around 11am, knowing it would be a shorter day. The ascent was long and difficult, and we climbed steadily for 2 hours in the rain. Foot placement was always important as the rocks were steep and slippery. Once at the top we viewed Grisedale Tarn (a beautiful mountaintop lake). The weather improved for our descent down the valley into the village of Patterdale. Our B & B (Wordsworth cottage) was built in 1670 and we had a small but very charming room. We had dinner at the White Lion Inn and Pub where we met up with other Coast to Coasters we'd encountered along the way. Sean (a retired policeman from Northern Ireland), Walt and Pat (a retired couple from Virginia - what an inspiration Pat is for us. She's keeping pace on two artificial knees!), Michelle and Annike (young investment bankers from London doing the first 5 days of the trail), Penny and Marilyn (two friends from Britain who started with us at St Bees and who are doing a portion of the trail). Coast to Coast hikers tend to look out for one another along the way. It's been terrific bonding with others who share a common goal.

Leaving Patterdale

C2C Day 2 - Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite - 14 miles

We are now in the beautiful Lake District. The day started off overcast as we walked along Ennerdale Lake . While we stopped to have our lunch at Black Sail Hut, it drizzled a bit, but the sun came out in the afternoon as we climbed straight up over to Honnister Pass. Although it was very rocky most of the way, (which made for pretty sore feet) the surroundings were beautiful. We stayed at the Royal Oak Hotel and had a wonderful evening with some of the local folk. We are positive that the people in northern England are the friendliest of all.

Ennerdale Lake

Our first major climb of the walk

The bridge over the river Derwent near Rosthwaite

Francine with seven wonderful British gentlemen who go walking when it is ladies day at the golf course.

Typical Lake District scenery - beautiful!

C2C Day 3 - Rosthwaite to Grasmere - 10 miles

After another great English breakfast, we started off on the shortest day of walking so far distance-wise, but we had a long constant uphill climb for two hours up to Greenup Edge, with threatening skies. Views back towards Rosthwaite were beautiful. Once at the top, we had a choice of an easier descent to Grasmere via the valley route, or the more difficult walkalong the long ridge of the north side of Far Easedale, passing over Gibson Knott to the summit of Helm Crag. We debated these options while having our packed lunch huddled under a rock in the driving rain and high winds. Peter was confident that the weather would change for the better, so we decided on the high route. The first few hundred metres were a challenge as the howling winds almost swept us off, but within 15 minutes the rain stopped, the skies cleared, the sun came out and we were rewarded with some spectacular views of the surrounding valleys, crags, fells and tarns. Absolutely breathtaking! We arrived in the fairytale village of Grasmere (of William Wordsworth fame) content that we had survived the first 3 days and were blessed with descent weather. For the New Brunswickers reading this you'll know what we mean when we say we were "potato-picking" tired!

As the days progress, the trail markers are less prominent. We've managed with our compass, maps and guidebooks, but when in doubt, Peter has been able to verify our position using GPS waypoints. Thanks Ron for the loan of your GPS and thanks Louis for the crash course.

So far the Coast to Coast walk has been quite tough, but highly rewarding and we've met some wonderful local people as well as other walkers on the trail. We've also been motivated by the support and feedback we've been getting via your comments. Thansk so much!

We expect Internet access to be spotty over the next 2 or 3 days and so we'll post when we can...

So long from the internet cafe at the Garden Centre in Grasmere, 10:30 am local time as we prepare to go off towards Patterdale in the rain.

Need to get up over the top
Long climb up from the valley below
We'll be walking over the ridge in the distance

Grasmere below

Tomorrow's route

C2C Day 1- July 14 - St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge: 14 miles

We're sitting in the pub at the Shepherd's Arms Hotel in Ennerdale Bridge and are using a laptop the owner Malcom has kindly lent us while trying the local beers - have had Jennings, Tetley and Twaithes -all good - as we celebrate our first successful day. We were told that the first 3 days were the toughest - and they weren't lying! Woke up to overcast skies and it stayed that way all day, however we didn't experience any rain today. It was tough saying goodbye to our wonderful hosts at the Abbey Farm B & B in St Bees (Steve and Janet -kindred spirits -No we didn't take Poo and Piglet - Peter wouldn't let me!)

We dipped our boots in the Irish Sea and selected our rocks to carry with us to Robin Hood's Bay. (C2C traditions) and set off up and around St Bees Head. Luckily we were able to take pictures yesterday when the weather was excellent and we could see over to the Isle of Man and Scotland. We walked through Sandwith (did you know it's pronounced Sanith?), and stopped for lunch at the Three Tuns Pub in Cleator, being made to feel welcomed by the wonderful locals.

Next it was on to Dent Fell, our first big challenge. Our guide book said "reached either with a sudden access of energy and determination or on hands and knees". We didn't have to do the hands and knees but it was a "relentess climb". Unfortunately, the summit was shrouded in mist and cloud so we missed out on the beautiful views. We then had a "brutal knee-wrecking descent to the valley below (thank God for walking sticks!) and then followed Kirk Beck (stream ) for a ways and eventually arriving in Ennedale Bridge at 4:30pm our feet telling us it was time to stop for the day. We expect to be in bed early tonight!

Marker at the official start of the Coast to Coast Walk

St Bees Head - looking a bit different than yesterday. Still beautiful!

Our new friends at the Three Tuns Pub in Cleator. Great people!

At the summit of Dent Fell (344 m)

Much steeper than it looks!