Coast to Coast Walk - England - July 2008

Step 1 – Let’s create the blog! 

Hi everyone,
Well Peter has been bugging me to create a blog about our upcoming trip. Seems that many of our friends and family would like to follow us on our journey. So here goes. The blog is now created and hopefully we will be able to update you on a regular basis. Who knows? We may not have internet access... We may not be able to upload photos... We may even get lost, never to be heard from again!!! But we'll give it a try.

Coast to Coast Where? 

For those of you wondering where exactly it is that we'll be hiking, here are a couple of maps which might be helpful:

We'll start off from St. Bees on the morning of Monday July 14th and plan to arrive at Robin Hood's Bay on the 26th.










Coast to Coast Walk – Are we ready? 

We leave Toronto tonight for London and have completed our checklist:

Bags are packed and under the weight limit - check

Rain gear - check

Walking sticks - check

Hiking boots broken in - check

Mastered compass reading skills - check

Maps and guide book- check

GPS waypoints - not sure about that one....

Fitness levels achieved - hope so!

First aid kit - lots of blister pads, band aids, Advil, A535



Since January, we've gone on a number of hikes in nearby trails and parks, trying to do a fair bit of walking and climbing and have been spending lots of time on the elliptical, so we're as ready as we're going to be.

Even though we've traveled a fair bit, we have never been this apprehensive about a trip before. We're nervous and excited all at the same time. Peter is leaving behind his computer, blackberry and cell phone and so we'll be dependant upon Internet access availability along the route. We'll try to update when we can! Please pray for good weather.

Coast to Coast - Pre-Walk – St Bees 

Our trip got off to a terrific start on Friday, July 11th, as we were bumped up to Business class for our flight from Toronto to London. We had the new lay-flat pods on Air Canada's 777 and so had a chance to get some sleep on the flight over. We then connected to Manchester and then after a four hour train to Carlisle we embarked on the last leg of our journey - changing trains for a one hour trip to St Bees arriving at 6pm local time July 12th.

Found Abbey Farm B & B where Steve gave us a great welcome! After a walk down to the beach to get a look at the start of the trail, we had dinner at the best restaurant in town (actually, the ONLY restaurant in town!)

After a great night's sleep and typical English breakfast, (plus a long chat with Steve - he and his wife actually met on the Coast to Coast walk) we decided to do a mini (5 mile) hike along St Bee's Head. The weather was sunny and beautiful - about 24 degrees C and the best weather day they've had here for a while. We'll be in bed early tonight because tomorrow the real walk begins...

Abbey Farm B & B, St Bees

St Bees at dusk

Beach at St Bees

Near the start of the Coast to Coast
St Bees Head

Fleswick Bay

One of many markers along the way

Francine going over a step-stile

Locals checking out the foreigners!

Our first beer at the Dog and Partridge

C2C Day 1 - July 14 - St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge - 14 miles

We're sitting in the pub at the Shepherd's Arms Hotel in Ennerdale Bridge and are using a laptop the owner Malcom has kindly lent us while trying the local beers - have had Jennings, Tetley and Twaithes -all good - as we celebrate our first successful day. We were told that the first 3 days were the toughest - and they weren't lying! Woke up to overcast skies and it stayed that way all day, however we didn't experience any rain today. It was tough saying goodbye to our wonderful hosts at the Abbey Farm B & B in St Bees (Steve and Janet -kindred spirits -No we didn't take Poo and Piglet - Peter wouldn't let me!)

We dipped our boots in the Irish Sea and selected our rocks to carry with us to Robin Hood's Bay. (C2C traditions) and set off up and around St Bees Head. Luckily we were able to take pictures yesterday when the weather was excellent and we could see over to the Isle of Man and Scotland. We walked through Sandwith (did you know it's pronounced Sanith?), and stopped for lunch at the Three Tuns Pub in Cleator, being made to feel welcomed by the wonderful locals.

Next it was on to Dent Fell, our first big challenge. Our guide book said "reached either with a sudden access of energy and determination or on hands and knees". We didn't have to do the hands and knees but it was a "relentess climb". Unfortunately, the summit was shrouded in mist and cloud so we missed out on the beautiful views. We then had a "brutal knee-wrecking descent to the valley below (thank God for walking sticks!) and then followed Kirk Beck (stream ) for a ways and eventually arriving in Ennedale Bridge at 4:30pm our feet telling us it was time to stop for the day. We expect to be in bed early tonight!

Marker at the official start of the Coast to Coast Walk

St Bees Head - looking a bit different than yesterday. Still beautiful!

Our new friends at the Three Tuns Pub in Cleator. Great people!

At the summit of Dent Fell (344 m)

Much steeper than it looks!

C2C Day 2 - July 25 - Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite - 14 miles

We are now in the beautiful Lake District. The day started off overcast as we walked along Ennerdale Lake . While we stopped to have our lunch at Black Sail Hut, it drizzled a bit, but the sun came out in the afternoon as we climbed straight up over to Honnister Pass. Although it was very rocky most of the way, (which made for pretty sore feet) the surroundings were beautiful. We stayed at the Royal Oak Hotel and had a wonderful evening with some of the local folk. We are positive that the people in northern England are the friendliest of all.

Ennerdale Lake

Our first major climb of the walk

The bridge over the river Derwent near Rosthwaite

Francine with seven wonderful British gentlemen who go walking when it is ladies day at the golf course.

Typical Lake District scenery - beautiful!

C2C Day 3 - July 26 - Rosthwaite to Grasmere - 10 miles

After another great English breakfast, we started off on the shortest day of walking so far distance-wise, but we had a long constant uphill climb for two hours up to Greenup Edge, with threatening skies. Views back towards Rosthwaite were beautiful. Once at the top, we had a choice of an easier descent to Grasmere via the valley route, or the more difficult walkalong the long ridge of the north side of Far Easedale, passing over Gibson Knott to the summit of Helm Crag. We debated these options while having our packed lunch huddled under a rock in the driving rain and high winds. Peter was confident that the weather would change for the better, so we decided on the high route. The first few hundred metres were a challenge as the howling winds almost swept us off, but within 15 minutes the rain stopped, the skies cleared, the sun came out and we were rewarded with some spectacular views of the surrounding valleys, crags, fells and tarns. Absolutely breathtaking! We arrived in the fairytale village of Grasmere (of William Wordsworth fame) content that we had survived the first 3 days and were blessed with descent weather. For the New Brunswickers reading this you'll know what we mean when we say we were "potato-picking" tired!

As the days progress, the trail markers are less prominent. We've managed with our compass, maps and guidebooks, but when in doubt, Peter has been able to verify our position using GPS waypoints. Thanks Ron for the loan of your GPS and thanks Louis for the crash course.

So far the Coast to Coast walk has been quite tough, but highly rewarding and we've met some wonderful local people as well as other walkers on the trail. We've also been motivated by the support and feedback we've been getting via your comments. Thansk so much!

We expect Internet access to be spotty over the next 2 or 3 days and so we'll post when we can...

So long from the internet cafe at the Garden Centre in Grasmere, 10:30 am local time as we prepare to go off towards Patterdale in the rain.

Need to get up over the top
Long climb up from the valley below
We'll be walking over the ridge in the distance

Grasmere below

Tomorrow's route

C2C Day 4 - July 17 - Grasmere to Patterdale - 8 miles

Woke up to a rainy day. After updating our blog we set off for Patterdale around 11am, knowing it would be a shorter day. The ascent was long and difficult, and we climbed steadily for 2 hours in the rain. Foot placement was always important as the rocks were steep and slippery. Once at the top we viewed Grisedale Tarn (a beautiful mountaintop lake). The weather improved for our descent down the valley into the village of Patterdale. Our B & B (Wordsworth cottage) was built in 1670 and we had a small but very charming room. We had dinner at the White Lion Inn and Pub where we met up with other Coast to Coasters we'd encountered along the way. Sean (a retired policeman from Northern Ireland), Walt and Pat (a retired couple from Virginia - what an inspiration Pat is for us. She's keeping pace on two artificial knees!), Michelle and Annike (young investment bankers from London doing the first 5 days of the trail), Penny and Marilyn (two friends from Britain who started with us at St Bees and who are doing a portion of the trail). Coast to Coast hikers tend to look out for one another along the way. It's been terrific bonding with others who share a common goal.

Leaving Grasmere

C2C Day 5 - July 18 - Patterdale to Shap - 16 miles

OK - so those that say Day 3 or 4 are the toughest - lied. What a long day this was. We left Patterdale at 9 am and immediately started our ascent all the way up and over the High Street range. The height gain for today was 2500 feet and we crossed over Kidsty Pike, the highest point crossed on the C to C walk. Even though we had a beautiful view of Bannerdale Valley, unfortunately the summit was covered by cloud and mist and we were a bit disappointed not to be able to see the view from the top. After a steep descent we walked at least 4 miles along the Haweswater Reservoir and through some wonderful country, finally arriving in Shap at 7pm. We were so tired that we barely made it to the closest pub for dinner.

Leaving Patterdale

Angle Tarn

At the summit near Kidsty Pike

C2C Day 6 - July 19 - Shap to Kirby Stephen - 21 miles

What a long day! We figured a 21 mile walk would be pretty straightforward. Wrong again! Although not as hilly, it was definitely an endurance test. Rain poured down on us a couple of times through the moorlands. The landscape is very different although just as beautiful. After leaving at 9:30 am and stopping for lunch in the beautiful village of Orton, we arrived at the Old Coach House BB at 7pm - dog tired. Thanks to our wonderful hosts, Derek and Betty Rome, we have been able to quickly update you. Hopefully, by tonight we will have reached the half-way point.







C2C Day 7 - July 20 - Kirby Stephen to Keld - 12 miles

You've probably noticed that our posts have become shorter and less detailed. There are two reasons for this 1) we've had to rely on the generosity of our B&B hosts and since it takes a fair bit of time to upload pictures, etc. we've tried to keep it short and 2) exhaustion after a long day of walking! As well, we have only been uploading the pictures from Francine's camera. Peter's photos (larger files to upload) will come later.
Today was a welcome break at only 12 miles. We hiked up to Nine Standards Rigg which is the so called watershed of England (water flows either west to the Irish Sea or east to the North Sea - sort of like a continental divide). However, crossing miles of boggy, peaty moors (hilly swamps in a barren landscape), we felt like all of the water was simply staying up there. Worst day for the boots yet! This was the first day that we had no rain but the wind on top was biting and cold. We walked today's whole section with Sean, our new friend from Northern Ireland, and the conversation enriched the day. Arriving in Keld, we had a pint at our B&B (Keld Lodge), to celebrate reaching the half-way point!
Some Observations:

• Peter has a couple of blisters but is keeping them in check with second skin and blister pads.
• Francine's scraped knees (from a day 2 tumble) is healing well.
• We must be burning off the calories because we have been polishing off pretty significant evening meals.
• Sticky Toffee pudding is our new favourite desert.
• Our boots are looking quite disgusting at this point - thank goodness for drying rooms found at most places that we have stayed at.
• Initially we tried to avoid sheep/cow droppings, now we just don't care!
• Peter now knows how to recognize stinging nettles (a weed), after a major encounter led to a sleepness night of burning legs!
• The black slugs found everywhere are huge!
• Days are incredibly long. Sunrise is at 5:00 AM and it is still light out long after we go to bed at 10:00PM.
• We go to bed every night exhausted and sleep like babies.
• This is by far the most challenging thing that we have ever done and we are loving every minute of it!

Note to Barry and Jane - re: Roys, our middle names are Thomas and Lynne.
Note to Pat - The Lake district fells make the Boulder Flatirons look like child's play!
Note to Louis and Lise - you would love Geo-caching along this route.

Thanks to all of you for your comments. They help keep us motivated.

Kirkby Stephen

Nine Standards Rigg

Sean and Peter

Peat bogs everywhere - a real challenge to negotiate

Moorland

Near Ravenseat Farm

One of many stone barns used to store hay and shelter cattle and sheep

C2C Day 8 - July 21 - Keld to Reeth - 12 miles

We woke up to sunshine and beautiful blue skies and a gorgeous view of Swaledale from our room at Keld Lodge. We must be getting better at this since a 12 mile walk felt like a light day (we did take the low level valley route). We are now in the Yorkshire Dales National Park and the scenery has changed once more. Lush green rolling hills, meadow land, farms with stone barns, miles of stone fencing and the beautiful Swale River which we were never far from all day. It is a very dark brown/reddish colour due to the peaty soil in this area. Had a great lunch at the Punch Bowl Inn in Low Brow, a small village of 20 or so buildings where we watched the cows meander down the road at their leisure. We arrived early in Reeth, checked in to The Cambridge House Country Inn and updated our Blog. Now we are off to one of three pubs in town for dinner and a pint (or two)!

East Gill Force, Keld

Swaledale (Swale Valley)

Swaledale

Peter going through one of many squeeze stiles

Swale RiverThe village of Gunnerside
Lunch at the Punch Bowl Inn

C2C Day 9 - July 22 - Reeth to Richmond - 11 miles

Another fairly easy day today. Not as sunny as yesterday, but another beautiful day with no rain. Walked along the Swale valley for a bit and through the villages of Marrick and Marske as well as through Whitcliffe Wood. Today's scenery looked a lot like what we have in our native New Brunswick. We had dinner last night in Reeth with Rachel and David (father and daughter walkers who are great fun). We were sad to learn from them that our friend Shaun's knees gave out and he was forced to suspend his C2C walk. We know how disappointed he must have been.
We are now in the larger town of Richmond at the public library after visiting the Market Place, Richmond Castle and Georgian Theatre Royal. We will be in bed early tonight since we have a long day tomorrow - 23 miles. What a way to celebrate the day of our silver anniversary!

Note to Shaun: Sorry to hear the news. We had hoped that you had taken the valley route to Reeth instead of the high level. Looking forward to seeing you at the pub in High Hawsker on Saturday.

 
C2C Day 10 - July 23 - Richmond to Ingleby Cross - 23 miles
 
At 8:30, we said good-bye to our great hosts, Gary & Lindsay, at Rosedale House. We happened to be at the same Indian Restaurant last night and they sent over drinks and dessert and then came over with the staff to sing Happy Anniversary.

In hindsight, 23 miles on the day of our anniversary, was probably not the best idea. We couldn't really recall why we had decided on this routing. Must have been due to the fact that this stretch was almost entirely agricultural and flat. It was very hot, over 80 degrees F, and thankfully we didn't have direct sun all day. By the time that we arrived at Park House B&B, at 6:15 PM, the Champagne on ice was a welcome surprise. We could barely make it for dinner to Di's specialty of Steak and Ale Pie - which was great. After watching the sun set, we were so tired that instead of trying to re-create our wedding night, we settled for foot massages! (Yeah right!).

We are in the North York Moors National Park and are looking forward to what tomorrow brings.

Note to Jonathan and Anne - Thanks so much for the card received on arrival at Park House. Looking forward to seeing you in London.

Lunch at the White Swan in Danby Wiske

Water tower in Ingleby Cross

Our anniversary dinner

C2C Day 11 - July 24 - Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top - 12 miles
 
After yesterday's marathon section, today was a relatively short day, however when a day consists of only 12 miles, it usually means only one thing - climbing! In this case it was moors. The scenery has changed yet again and the moors are beautiful. We can only imagine what it will be like in a couple of weeks when the heather is in bloom. Today's height gain was 2545 feet and the climbing and descents were very steep. We climbed up and down several moors, until arriving at Clay Bank Top. It was a warm, partly sunny day and at one point, it was possible to see the North Sea (our destination) in the distance. Arriving in Clay Bank Top, we hitched a ride to our B&B in Great Broughton, owned by Len and Margaret Sutcliffe. Both are in their 80's and they have operated their B&B for over 30 years. What a delightful couple! Margaret prepared tea and home made scones and Len gave us a tour of his incredible flower gardens.

Hard to believe that we have only 2 days and less than 40 miles to go.

Arncliffe Woods

Scarth Wood Moor

Summit of Carlton Moor

The wonderful Mr Sutcliffe

C2C Day 12 - July 25 - Clay Bank Top to Glaisdale  - 19 miles

After a wonderful send-off from the Sutcliffes, their daughter drove us back to where we left off the day before at Clay Bank Top. Almost immediately we began a climb up to Urra Moor - a desolate, windy and beautiful landscape. It was another gorgeous sunny day with very few clouds and we actually got sun burned. We walked five miles along an old abandoned railway track bed and on the way saw some of the best panoramas of the trip. We stopped for lunch at the infamous Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge and then plodded along for another 10 miles or so to the village of Glaisdale. Our feet our ACHING! Peter is hoping to get another day's worth on his blistered heels. We are relieving our pain at our home for the night - The Arncliffe Arms Inn and Pub where Marie has kindly allowed us to use her laptop to update the last 3 days. The end is in sight and we thrilled and sad at the same time.

Note to Michelle and Anniki - we'd love to meet you for coffee on Tuesday the 29th if you're available. Leave a cell number at the Marriott Renaissance Chancery Court.

Climbing Urra Moor

Ralph Cross - one of the Moorland Crosses

Trough House - an old shooting lodge

C2C Day 13 - July 26 - Glaisdale to Robin Hood's Bay - 19 miles

We made it! Today's walk included a variety of terrain from hiking through the woodlands of East Arncliffe and Littlebeck, the boggy moorlands of Sleights Moor and Greystone Hills, the pastureland, along the Esk and Littlebeck rivers and finally the coastal hike from High Hawsker to our final destination of Robin Hood's Bay. Other than the fells, it was like a summary of the entire trip on the final day. We passed through the beautiful village of Grosmont followed immediately by a 2 mile climb of 33 degrees. The day was sunny, hot and hazy and due to coastal fog, we were unable to see the North Sea until we were upon it. What a feeling as we reached the cliff tops for the final 3 miles into Robin Hood's Bay. We made our way down the steep steps of the village to the ocean and the traditional barefoot dipping and throwing of the 2 pebbles that we had carried from St. Bee's. This felt great to our tired, blistered feet! We then made our way to the Bay Hotel for a celebratory pint at Wainwright's Bar with Peter and Tish who finished at the same time as we did. (We had criss-crossed with them a number of times over the past few days).

This has been an amazing experience. As mentioned before, it was by far the most physically demanding thing that we have ever done. It was also the most fulfilling. We are now hooked on mutli-day walking but won't wait until our 50th anniversary for the next one. As they say, it was all about the journey and not the destination. We met a number of wonderful people - from fellow walkers to B&B hosts and locals and we have had great fun reading your comments of support. We hope you enjoyed the Blog and thank you for sharing the experience. Cheers!

PS: We are on our way to London for a couple of days, although we wish we could have stayed a few hours more to welcome Rachel, David and Shaun (who resumed the walk on painkillers after a day of rest and against doctor's and Mother's orders), upon their arrival at RHB.

Once we get back to Toronto, we will upload a few of the best photos of the walk taken with Peter's camera.

Littlebeck River

Robin Hood's Bay

As promised, here are some of our favourite photos taken with Peter's camera. We hope you enjoy!