C2C Day 4 - July 17 - Grasmere to Patterdale - 8 miles

Woke up to a rainy day. After updating our blog we set off for Patterdale around 11am, knowing it would be a shorter day. The ascent was long and difficult, and we climbed steadily for 2 hours in the rain. Foot placement was always important as the rocks were steep and slippery. Once at the top we viewed Grisedale Tarn (a beautiful mountaintop lake). The weather improved for our descent down the valley into the village of Patterdale. Our B & B (Wordsworth cottage) was built in 1670 and we had a small but very charming room. We had dinner at the White Lion Inn and Pub where we met up with other Coast to Coasters we'd encountered along the way. Sean (a retired policeman from Northern Ireland), Walt and Pat (a retired couple from Virginia - what an inspiration Pat is for us. She's keeping pace on two artificial knees!), Michelle and Annike (young investment bankers from London doing the first 5 days of the trail), Penny and Marilyn (two friends from Britain who started with us at St Bees and who are doing a portion of the trail). Coast to Coast hikers tend to look out for one another along the way. It's been terrific bonding with others who share a common goal.

Leaving Patterdale

C2C Day 2 - Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite - 14 miles

We are now in the beautiful Lake District. The day started off overcast as we walked along Ennerdale Lake . While we stopped to have our lunch at Black Sail Hut, it drizzled a bit, but the sun came out in the afternoon as we climbed straight up over to Honnister Pass. Although it was very rocky most of the way, (which made for pretty sore feet) the surroundings were beautiful. We stayed at the Royal Oak Hotel and had a wonderful evening with some of the local folk. We are positive that the people in northern England are the friendliest of all.

Ennerdale Lake

Our first major climb of the walk

The bridge over the river Derwent near Rosthwaite

Francine with seven wonderful British gentlemen who go walking when it is ladies day at the golf course.

Typical Lake District scenery - beautiful!

C2C Day 3 - Rosthwaite to Grasmere - 10 miles

After another great English breakfast, we started off on the shortest day of walking so far distance-wise, but we had a long constant uphill climb for two hours up to Greenup Edge, with threatening skies. Views back towards Rosthwaite were beautiful. Once at the top, we had a choice of an easier descent to Grasmere via the valley route, or the more difficult walkalong the long ridge of the north side of Far Easedale, passing over Gibson Knott to the summit of Helm Crag. We debated these options while having our packed lunch huddled under a rock in the driving rain and high winds. Peter was confident that the weather would change for the better, so we decided on the high route. The first few hundred metres were a challenge as the howling winds almost swept us off, but within 15 minutes the rain stopped, the skies cleared, the sun came out and we were rewarded with some spectacular views of the surrounding valleys, crags, fells and tarns. Absolutely breathtaking! We arrived in the fairytale village of Grasmere (of William Wordsworth fame) content that we had survived the first 3 days and were blessed with descent weather. For the New Brunswickers reading this you'll know what we mean when we say we were "potato-picking" tired!

As the days progress, the trail markers are less prominent. We've managed with our compass, maps and guidebooks, but when in doubt, Peter has been able to verify our position using GPS waypoints. Thanks Ron for the loan of your GPS and thanks Louis for the crash course.

So far the Coast to Coast walk has been quite tough, but highly rewarding and we've met some wonderful local people as well as other walkers on the trail. We've also been motivated by the support and feedback we've been getting via your comments. Thansk so much!

We expect Internet access to be spotty over the next 2 or 3 days and so we'll post when we can...

So long from the internet cafe at the Garden Centre in Grasmere, 10:30 am local time as we prepare to go off towards Patterdale in the rain.

Need to get up over the top
Long climb up from the valley below
We'll be walking over the ridge in the distance

Grasmere below

Tomorrow's route

C2C Day 1- July 14 - St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge: 14 miles

We're sitting in the pub at the Shepherd's Arms Hotel in Ennerdale Bridge and are using a laptop the owner Malcom has kindly lent us while trying the local beers - have had Jennings, Tetley and Twaithes -all good - as we celebrate our first successful day. We were told that the first 3 days were the toughest - and they weren't lying! Woke up to overcast skies and it stayed that way all day, however we didn't experience any rain today. It was tough saying goodbye to our wonderful hosts at the Abbey Farm B & B in St Bees (Steve and Janet -kindred spirits -No we didn't take Poo and Piglet - Peter wouldn't let me!)

We dipped our boots in the Irish Sea and selected our rocks to carry with us to Robin Hood's Bay. (C2C traditions) and set off up and around St Bees Head. Luckily we were able to take pictures yesterday when the weather was excellent and we could see over to the Isle of Man and Scotland. We walked through Sandwith (did you know it's pronounced Sanith?), and stopped for lunch at the Three Tuns Pub in Cleator, being made to feel welcomed by the wonderful locals.

Next it was on to Dent Fell, our first big challenge. Our guide book said "reached either with a sudden access of energy and determination or on hands and knees". We didn't have to do the hands and knees but it was a "relentess climb". Unfortunately, the summit was shrouded in mist and cloud so we missed out on the beautiful views. We then had a "brutal knee-wrecking descent to the valley below (thank God for walking sticks!) and then followed Kirk Beck (stream ) for a ways and eventually arriving in Ennedale Bridge at 4:30pm our feet telling us it was time to stop for the day. We expect to be in bed early tonight!

Marker at the official start of the Coast to Coast Walk

St Bees Head - looking a bit different than yesterday. Still beautiful!

Our new friends at the Three Tuns Pub in Cleator. Great people!

At the summit of Dent Fell (344 m)

Much steeper than it looks!

Coast to Coast - Pre-Walk - St Bees

Our trip got off to a terrific start on Friday, July 11th, as we were bumped up to Business class for our flight from Toronto to London. We had the new lay-flat pods on Air Canada's 777 and so had a chance to get some sleep on the flight over. We then connected to Manchester and then after a four hour train to Carlisle we embarked on the last leg of our journey - changing trains for a one hour trip to St Bees arriving at 6pm local time July 12th.

Found Abbey Farm B & B where Steve gave us a great welcome! After a walk down to the beach to get a look at the start of the trail, we had dinner at the best restaurant in town (actually, the ONLY restaurant in town!)

After a great night's sleep and typical English breakfast, (plus a long chat with Steve - he and his wife actually met on the Coast to Coast walk) we decided to do a mini (5 mile) hike along St Bee's Head. The weather was sunny and beautiful - about 24 degrees C and the best weather day they've had here for a while. We'll be in bed early tonight because tomorrow the real walk begins...

Abbey Farm B & B, St Bees

St Bees at dusk

Beach at St Bees

Near the start of the Coast to Coast
St Bees Head

Fleswick Bay

One of many markers along the way

Francine going over a step-stile

Locals checking out the foreigners!

Our first beer at the Dog and Partridge

Coast to Coast Walk - Are we ready?

We leave Toronto tonight for London and have completed our checklist:



Bags are packed and under the weight limit - check

Rain gear - check

Walking sticks - check

Hiking boots broken in - check

Mastered compass reading skills - check

Maps and guide book- check

GPS waypoints - not sure about that one....

Fitness levels achieved - hope so!

First aid kit - lots of blister pads, band aids, Advil, A535



Since January, we've gone on a number of hikes in nearby trails and parks, trying to do a fair bit of walking and climbing and have been spending lots of time on the elliptical, so we're as ready as we're going to be.

Even though we've traveled a fair bit, we have never been this apprehensive about a trip before. We're nervous and excited all at the same time. Peter is leaving behind his computer, blackberry and cell phone and so we'll be dependant upon Internet access availability along the route. We'll try to update when we can! Please pray for good weather.

Coast to Coast Where?

For those of you wondering where exactly it is that we'll be hiking, here are a couple of maps which might be helpful:


We'll start off from St. Bees on the morning of Monday July 14th and plan to arrive at Robin Hood's Bay on the 26th.