TMB - Post hike

TMB - Post hike

From Chamonix (1035m) , we took the Aiguille du Midi cable car(s) up to 3842m  to get a panoramic view of the Mont Blanc Massif. What a way to cap off our trip!

Amazing view of the mountains. Note the climber on rock face.

Closest we'll ever get to the summit of Mont Blanc, 4810m

One of the most amazing places we've ever been!

View of Auguille du Midi (highest peak to the left) from Chamonix center.

TMB Day 11 - Plan Praz (Chamonix) to Les Houches

TMB Day 11 - Plan Praz (Chamonix) to Les Houches

Word for the day - Finale

Leaving most of our gear at the hotel, we took the cable car back up to where we had left off. We climbed 2 hours up to Col de Brevent and on to Le Brevent where we had an amazing view of the entire Mont Blanc massif. It was so cool to be able to see Col de Tricot, our first pass, in the western horizon and Col de Balme to the East, Mont Blanc and the Bossons glacier were directly in front of us - never felt so close to the mountains! Had lunch at Refugio Bellachat, perched on a cliff with Chamonix 1500 meters directly below us. Next came the ¨knee-wrecking¨ descent ( over 1300 m for the day) to Les Houches, where we had started our journey 11 days ago. Picked up our suitcase at Hotel Campanules and on to the train station. Had a 50 minute wait, so Peter set off to get us a couple of beers so that we could celebrate. Back in Chamonix, had a victory dinner with our Aussie friends - John & Lynne, Margaret and Tahira.
The TMB trail was certainly tougher than expected but very satisfying and we have memories to last a lifetime.

Mont Blanc across the valley - the mountains felt like they were right there!

Very rocky section between Plan Praz and Brevent

Long steep descent to Les Houches. Thankful for the handrails.

Part of Mont Blanc Massif

TMB Day 10 - Argentiere ( Tre le Champ) to Plan Praz / Chamonix

TMB Day 10 - Argentiere ( Tre le Champ) to Plan Praz / Chamonix

Word of the day - Off-piste

There were three options today - a high route, a middle route involving a series of ladders and a low route in the event of bad weather. We wanted to do option #2.
Started the day from Argentiere - Peter thought he could find a short cut from our hotel to the main TMB trail from Tre le Champ but after an hour of climbing we realized that we would have to back track all the way to Tre le Champ to get back to the main trail and over to do the famous ladder section. We set off from there again at 10:30 for a long climb up to the sheer rock face where serious climbers were doing their thing. We began the ladder section - a series of metal ladders, foots steps, stairs and railings designed to help get over this vertical section of the TMB - not for the faint of heart especially when carrying 10 kg backpacks. Upon arriving at the day`s high point - La Flegere, we were starving but had to have a very quick lunch as we had to hike to Plan Praz, 2 hours away, to catch the last cable car down to Chamonix at 5pm. We set off at 2:45 with little time to spare. The trail was flat for the most part and we were making good time until Peter decided to follow 2 Spanish guys who seemed to be taking a short cut. It was a good idea until we ended up in a large boulder field - very difficult to manoeuvre. With the time quickly passing by, panic set in - if we missed the cable car, it would be a 2 to 3 hour hike down to
Chamonix. Not a good time to be going ¨off-piste¨! - unless you want your wife to be ¨pissed off¨!
Finally extricated ourselves from the area and made the cable car with 5 minutes to spare. Chamonix is a beautiful little town and we walked to our Hotel Gustavia. We walked around the pedestrian streets and met up with the Irish lads, as planned, at Chambre Neuf bar/restaurant. John and Lynne joined us for a nightcap.

Nearing Aiguilette d'Argentiere

The start of the ladder section. There were about a dozen sets of ladders, metal steps, chains, railings and footholds.

Overlooking Chamonix Valley

Chamonix with view of Bossons Glacier in background

TMB Day 9 - Col de la Forclaz to Argentiere

TMB Day 9 - Col de la Forclaz (1562m) to Argentiere

Word of the day - Spectacular!

Today's ascent 1069m and descent 1178m.  After breakfast with Ian, Colin, Gary and Phillip, we set off at 8:45 for Col de la Balme.  First we had to descend to Trient and then a gradual ascent arriving at the Refugio Col de la Balme at noon.  The elderly lady proprietor, had a bit of a reputation as an ogre but we got along great.  After lunch we had 2 options for the afternoon, the low route or the high route.  We chose the high one that went over Aiguiellette de Posettes, giving us a spectacular panoramic view.  Then we climbed down to Tre le Champ and hiked a bit further down river to the village of Argentiere.  We found our hotel Montana, at the other end of the village.  We met the Aussies for a beer and then had a quiet pasta dinner.  To bed early again.

Began at Col de la Forclaz in the clearing up on the right, down to village of Trient, and the long hike up to our present location on the way to Col de Balme

Rustic Refugio de Col de Balme

This is the scene on the cover of our TMB guide book

Across the valley from Aiguilette de Posettes

Peter with John, Margaret, Lynne and Tahira at Argentiere

TMB Day 8 - Champex to Col de la Forclaz

TMB Day 8 - Champex to Col de la Forclaz

Word of the day - Awesome!

Got off to a late start today as we had dinner with the Aussies last night - beef bourguignon fondue.  Delicious!...and the best part was the soup left over in the pot.  Didn`t get to bed until after 10:30 so this morning we set off about 10 AM.  The day was cool but gorgeous and sunny.  We walked by some Swiss Chalets for the first hour and then had a pretty steep ascent through the woods to Bovine.  The views along the way and at the top were stunning - a panorama of mountain peaks with fresh snow and the Rhone Valley stretched out below us.  After a lunch of local cheeses and dried meats at Alpage Bovine, we had a long descent to Col de la Forclaz in Switzerland.  The Irish Lads were there as well so we had a couple of pints and dinner with them.

Looking towards Fenetre d'Arpette

Approaching Bovine

Rhone Valley below

Alp Bovine

Our Irish friends at the bar / Hotel de la Forclaz

TMB Day 7 - La Fouly to Champex

TMB Day 7 - La Fouly to Champex.
Word for the day - Relaxed.

Woke to light rain but knowing that we had a short day, we took our time with breakfast and set off at 10 am.  By this time the rain had stopped and we had a very pleasant day stopping for lunch in Issert and arriving in Champex by mid afternoon.  Most of the day was spent walking the valley next to a river with a final 1.5 hour ascent to Champex - lovely village on a mountain lake.  We are at Hotel du Glacier and having a beer with the Irish lads at the Alpin Club Bar and restaurant. Updating the blog and adding photos has been a real challenge!

Some steep sections had chains as aids

Lovely Swiss hamlet of Les Arlaches

The TMB trail was mostly always well-marked

Champex - Lac

TMB Day 6 - Refugio Bonatti to La Fouly

TMB Day 6 - Refugio Bonatti to La Fouly

Word for the Day - Diversity
Sunshine, clouds, fog, mist, drizzle, rain, sleet, freezing rain, hail and snow - we saw it all today!

Woke to beautiful blue skies and clear views of Mont Blanc, however we knew it would not last.  Set off early, before 8, knowing we had a high pass to navigate and wanted to be ahead of today's Ultra Trail race (1200 racers from Courmayeur to Chamonix - half TMB in 10 to 16 hours).

The first hour was pleasant and level with great views to the valley below.  We were soon donning our rain gear for a major mucky descent and then ascent to Refugio Elena arriving in the driving snow.  A few hikers decied to stay there since we were at 2062m and we still had to climb to 2537.  After a coffee and a pep talk to Francine, we set off for the Grand Col Ferret.  We reached the pass in blinding snow and heavy winds after negiotiating steep and narrow trails at the edge of cliffs that had become snow covered.  Francine's hands were cold from the wet gloves she had as the temperature dropped at the top (-4C).  We didn't stay long and couldn't see anything so headed down the Swiss side of the mountain after learning that the first of the racers was about 10 minutes behind us.  He soon passed us as did a constant flow for the remainder of the afternoon.  Difficult hiking while watching for racers coming up behind us.  After the snow stopped on the Swiss side we actually had a pleasant descent to La Fouly.

Checked into Hotel Edelweiss and after a hot shower headed down for dinner with the folks from the UK and the US.  Tomorrow should be an easy day.

Mont Blanc - the day began with sunshine

At Grand Col Ferret - blinding snow!

 Ultra Trail CCC runners

Torben & Merete - Danes living in UK, Mark & Kathy from Minnesota

TMB Day 5 - Courmayeur to Refugio Bonatti

TMB Day 5 - Courmayeur to Refugio Bonatti

Word for the day - Unpredictable

After seeing the 1200 runners leave Courmayeur at 7 AM, we had breakfast and set off ourselves at 9 AM in the pouring rain.  Needed to use our rain gear and pack covers that we had hoped we wouldn't have to.  We set off on a steep ascent for approximately 2 hours to Rufugio Bertoni.  Care was required as the trail was rocky and slippery and every so often, we would catch a glimpse of the mountain peaks, glaciers and the valley below.   By the time we arrived at Bertoni, we were soaked to the skin.  After hot coffee we set off again and fortunately the rain stopped and the skies cleared somewhat for what turned out to be a pleasant afternoon.  At 2 PM we arrived at Rufugio Bonatti,which was wonderful even if we didn't have our own room.  Just us and 4 Irish Lads.  This Rufugio was clean, modern and the food was excellent.  Chatted with Merete and Torben from the UK and Kathy and Mark from Minnesota. To bed early for a big day tomorrow.  Forecast is for snow above 2000 metres and we will be crossing a pass at 2537 m.

The start of one of the Ultra TMB races in  Courmayeur

Coming up to Refugio Bertone in the rain

Val Ferret

Inside Refugio Bonatti - the best Refugio on the TMB

Refugio Bonatti - our room was one of the two at the top

TMB Day 4 - Courmayeur

TMB Day 4 - Courmayeur
Word of the day - Restful.

After arriving in Courmayeur yesterday and settling into Hotel Berthoud, we walked the pedestrian streets of this lovely little village and had a wonderful Italian meal and a great nights sleep.

We spent the day today doing a bit of laundry, uploading photos for our blog at the Library and walking around town.  We bumped into a couple of the Australians (Margaret and Tahira) and ended up having a lovely dinner with them and John and Lynne. 

Back at Hotel Berthoud, a family owned hotel since 1960, we chatted with 3 generations of the family.

Another early night as we plan to get up early tomorrow to watch the start of one of the TMB races.  The most famous of the 4 Ultra Trail TMB races, consists of running the entire TMB curcuit (168 km´s) in 20 to 24 hours.  It will take us 10 days!

Courmayeur - what a setting this town finds itself in!

Our new friends from down under - Lynne, John, Tahira and Margaret

The wonderful ladies at Hotel Berthoud - 3 generations : Julia, Gabriella & Mrs Berthoud

TMB Day 3 - Les Chapieux to Courmayeur

TMB Day 3 - Les Chapieux to Courmayeur
Word for today - Perseverance!

Set off bright and early at 8:15 on another glorious day of clear skies, from Les Chapieux on the way to Refugio Elisabetta via Val des Glaciers.  Most hikers took a shuttle bus to Val des Glaciers, saving about 1.5 hours of hiking, but we chose not to.  We climbed up to Col des Seignes (2516m) and enjoyed spectacular panoramic views including our first clear look at Mont Blanc.  We were now crossing from France to Italy. Our plan was to end the day at Refugio Elisabetta, about a 5.5 hour journey and a relatively short day.  The hike to the Col des Seignes was tough for Francine - possibly the altitude and heavy pack that we are not used to.  Arriving at Refugio Elisabetta, we were shown our sleeping quarters which can only be described as 5 single mattresses all tightly laid side by side and we were expected to occupy one! That meant that there could be potentially 4 more couples sharing this bed space.  This might of been fun when we were 5 but not at 50.  Peter said that he hadn't signed up for this and convinced me and my tired body to keep going.  So we set off at 3 PM downhill to La Visaille (1.5 hours away) and hopped a quick bus ride to Courmayeur where we settled into the Hotel Berthoud and decided that tomorrow would be a rest day.
We would love to add more photos but they are very time consuming to download....
Note to Chris : Legs ok, but we have been through quite a few Advil!

Val des Glaciers

Our first view of Mont Blanc from Col des Seignes

Typical waymarker

Refugio Elisabetta

TMB Day 2 - Les Contamines to Les Chapieux

Day 2: Les Contamines to Les Chapieux
Word for today - excruciating

Woke to beautiful blue cloudless skies. Set off from Les Contamines (1167m) for what turned out to be 6 hours of straight up climbing, very steep throughout. We hiked up to the Col du Bonhomme (2443m) passing through a section of snowpack. then on up some more to the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2483m) getting there at 4 pm knowing that we still had over 2 hours of descent left to do. Thank God we each bought another hiking stick this morning - don't think we would have made it without them. The scenery today was spectacular, not a cloud all day. We met a lovely couple , John and Lynne from Sydney, Australia and walked the final portion of the day with them. We arrived at the Auberge de la Nova in Les Chapieux just in time for a quick shower then down to communal dinner at 7. What a long day! Peter wasn't crazy about our accommodation - we were in a 6 bed dortoir - 3 sets of bunk beds and since we arrived last we were stuck on top. Our roommates were already in bed at 9 when we went up after dinner so we had to rummage in the dark to settle in. We didn't sleep all that well in spite of being dog-tired.

Notre Dame de la Grotte, shortly after leaving Les Contamines

On the way up to Col du Bonhomme. Walking through the snow was more difficult!

Village of Les Contamines is in the far distance

At Col du Bonhomme

View to the other side of Col du Bonhomme

Knee wrecking descent to Les Chapieux